Here's why TikTok's Retinol Sandwich application method may not work for you

Here's why TikTok's Retinol Sandwich application method may not work for you

Retinol is a powerful skincare ingredient because it can help with a variety of skin concerns such as fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and acne. The ingredient is also easily available through over-the-counter skin care products available at local pharmacies and beauty stores.

However, one of the downsides to retinol is that, according to dermatologists, it is a super strong ingredient that many find irritating or drying. In an effort to reap the benefits of the popular ingredient without possible side effects, users on TikTok are posting videos of an application method called the “retinol sandwich.” It consists of applying a layer of moisturizer before the retinol and then applying another layer of moisturizer afterward to reduce the risk of dryness, flaking and irritation. A search for “retinol sandwich” on the app returns thousands of videos that have amassed a total of eight billion views, but does it work?

Technically, the “retinol sandwich” method protects against potential irritation caused by applying retinol to the skin. But that's because the first layer of moisturizer acts as a barrier, preventing retinol from penetrating the skin and reducing its effectiveness, according to dermatologists. Ahead, learn more about retinol and tips on how to best apply the skin-care ingredient to enjoy its benefits without the irritation.

What is Retinol?

“Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that is scientifically proven to promote healthy collagen production, fight aging, and treat acne,” says Anat Lebow, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist and dermatology consultant for Codex Beauty Labs. It's a type of retinoid, which is a "blanket term for vitamin A-derived products," adds Dr. Add Robyn Gmyrek, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City.

There are several types of retinoids, all of which have the same benefits, but some may be more potent in their effectiveness and formulation than others. “Retinoids include prescription retinoic acids, [such as] tretinoin (a topical medication), as well as retinols and retinaldehyde, which are available over the counter,” says Dr. Gmyrek. Prescription retinoids (aka retinoic acids) are the strongest and therefore the most irritating, which is why they require a doctor's recommendation," she explains. Retinaldehyde and retinol are less strong, which is why they are more readily available over the counter. You can find retinol in a variety of skin care serums, moisturizers, and gels.

So how does the ingredient work? Retinol behaves similarly to an antioxidant, explains Azadeh Shirazi, MD, a board-certified dermatologist. “[It] renews skin cells, protects collagen by fending off free radicals, and stimulates new collagen and elastin, plumping our deeper skin ([known as the] dermis) to reduce fine lines, wrinkles and pores.” (Related: Retinol Body Lotions You'll Want to Rub From Head to Toe)

Does applying moisturizer before and after retinol help reduce irritation?

Most skincare routines end with a layer of moisturizer, but the retinol sandwich method changes things up by requiring a layer of moisturizer before you also apply retinol to the skin. While this helps reduce irritation and improve skin's tolerance to retinol, experts say it compromises the effectiveness of retinol itself. “The moisturizer applied before the retinol acts as a barrier and reduces the absorption [of retinol],” says Dr. Shirazi.

There are also no scientific studies supporting this retinol application method, explains Dr. Gmyrek. "My particular concern about layering moisturizer before applying retinol comes from the fact that moisturizers contain occlusives such as petroleum, mineral oil, paraffin, squalene, dimethicone, shea butter, lanolin, beeswax, and cholesterol, to name a few." She says. Occlusives are moisturizers that work by creating a physical barrier on the skin to retain moisture in the skin, as Shape previously reported. “You may be absorbing very little of your anti-aging retinol, and while you are minimizing irritation, you may also be minimizing your [retinol’s] effectiveness,” says Dr. Gmyrek.

Finally, she recommends sticking with retinol products that are formulated with moisturizing ingredients to reduce irritation or looking for skin care products that have retinol encapsulated. Then the retinol is enclosed in a protective coating to slow its release into the skin, explains Dr. Gmyrek. "Encapsulating retinol makes it more stable than traditional retinol and provides a gradual release of the retinol overnight, resulting in less irritation," she says.

You can also try extending your nighttime skincare routine as an alternative, says Dr. Shirazi. Instead of applying moisturizer right before retinol, give it some time to fully absorb into the skin first. For example, she recommends patients cleanse and moisturize skin early in the evening and apply retinol a few hours later before bed. (Related: Get the scoop on the Slugging Skin-Care Hack, straight from Derms)

Is the “Retinol Sandwich” Method Safe?

Despite its ability to irritate the skin, retinol is a well-studied ingredient that is considered "safe and effective for improving overall skin health," says Dr. Shirazi. In fact, retinol has shown positive results and improved tolerability compared to prescription retinoids, which is why it is the most common type of vitamin A found in over-the-counter skin care products, says Dr. Gmyrek.

According to dermatologists, the “retinol sandwich” method in particular is also harmless. The only possible side effect is reduced effectiveness of retinol. “The potential downside is that moisturizers contain occlusives, which are great for locking in moisture, but they can also block penetration of the retinoid, resulting in minimal penetration and therefore potentially making the product less effective and reducing potential benefits,” says Dr Gmyrek.

When it comes to using retinol, patience is key. It takes time for your skin to adjust to the ingredient and for the results to become visible. However, it may be helpful to look for retinol products with moisturizing ingredients already included in their formula. Dr. Gmyrek recommends the Farmacy 1% Vitamin A Retinol Serum, which is made with ceramides to "restore the skin barrier," she says.

Applying moisturizer before retinol helps reduce irritation: true or false?

Technically, a “retinol sandwich” helps reduce irritation from the ingredient, but it may not be the best method of application to maintain retinol's effectiveness. If you want to give the trend a try, avoid moisturizers with occlusive ingredients, which tend to be thicker in formulation, and opt for lightweight products like CeraVe Daily Moisturizing Lotion. When in doubt, consult a dermatologist for the best advice for your skin type and concerns.