TikTok's no-makeup contour hack is actually super unsafe, according to a dermatologist

TikTok's no-makeup contour hack is actually super unsafe, according to a dermatologist

These days, TikTok is chock-full of fun beauty and skincare hacks. And as summer heats up, a buzzy trend called SPF contouring is spreading across the app. It involves selectively applying more or less SPF (the level of sun protection a sunscreen provides) to specific areas of your face to create a “naturally” contoured look without makeup. In other words, people use tan lines instead of bronzer and highlighter to define their cheekbones and create a luminous effect on their nose and forehead. (Check it out: TikTok Found a Supergoop Face Sunscreen Dupe at Trader Joe's – Here's What a Dermatologist Thinks)

You may have seen a few videos popped up on your For You page in which one or two skincare enthusiasts have applied a base layer of sunscreen all over their face, followed by a layer of higher SPF only on the parts of their face they want to highlight (typically on the forehead, along the cheekbones, under the eyes, and in the middle of the face). Worse, in some videos it seems like users are skipping the "All over SPF" step entirely and only applying sunscreen to the areas they want to highlight. The goal here is to create a contoured look without bronzer or highlighter, but does targeted tanning really work and is it even safe?

Read on to find out why one dermatologist thinks this sunscreen trend is not only unnecessary, but potentially dangerous in the long run. (Psst: How often should you really get skin cancer screenings?)

What is SPF contouring?

As mentioned above, SPF contouring involves strategic placement of sunscreen (usually a lotion rather than a spray) on the areas of the face where you would normally apply highlighter, mimicking the way bronzer and highlighter work together to define prominent facial features, sharper-looking cheekbones, and the appearance of a more defined bridge of the nose, for example.

Some people start by applying a regular base layer of sunscreen to their entire face before applying additional areas they want to highlight, while others only apply sunscreen to the desired highlight areas. It's intended to create a "naturally contoured look," as one creator calls it in a video clip, by tanning certain areas of the face more than others.

Does SPF contouring work?

SPF contouring can help some people achieve a contoured look without makeup, but only at the expense of skin health, Geeta Yadav, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of FACET Dermatology, tells Shape. Essentially, you're providing more protection from the sun's UV (ultraviolet) rays (which can cause sunburn and even skin cancer) to the parts of your face that you've covered with sunscreen or a higher SPF to highlight the skin.

This could result in a visible difference in skin tone between areas protected by more SPF than others after spending time in the sun, but there is no guarantee that the tan lines or burns will produce the same glow and definition that you get with bronzer and highlighter. Most importantly, applying sunscreen improperly can lead to more serious health problems, including sun damage and skin cancer, says Dr. Yadav.

Is SPF contouring safe?

On TikTok, dermatologists and plastic surgeons alike aren't convinced this trend is safe, even if it creates a visibly contoured look, according to popular reaction videos shared on the app. "The truth is that most people don't apply enough sunscreen anyway - so making a deliberate decision to apply it incorrectly is even worse," explains Dr. Yadav.

This has implications for both skin aesthetics and health. "We know that using enough sunscreen (and reapplying often!) slows the signs of aging, which means you'll see fine lines, wrinkles, skin laxity and dark spots sooner rather than later if you choose to use inadequate sun protection." says Dr. Yadav. (Read more: SPF and sunscreen myths you can't believe anymore, stat)

"Aside from the cosmetic effects, if you don't wear sunscreen, you're also putting your health at risk," she adds. In addition to the potential for painful burns (as some TikTokers have experienced after trying the SPF contouring trend), using sunscreen incorrectly increases your chances of developing several types of skin cancer, says Dr. Yadav. “By simply properly applying SPF 30 or higher daily, you can dramatically reduce your chances of developing skin cancer,” explains Dr. Yadav, adding that melanoma, a type of skin cancer, is one of the deadliest cancers. That's why you shouldn't play around with the right sun protection.

You Can Use Sunscreen to Create a Makeup-Free Contour Look: True or False?

Just because you can use sunscreen to create a "natural" contour doesn't mean you should, says Dr. Yadav, especially when there is no shortage of makeup products and easy contouring tutorials to help you achieve the same beauty effect without the risk of sun damage or skin cancer. "Trends that put you at risk aren't worth trying—instead, just use makeup to accentuate the contours," concludes Dr. Yadav.

And if you're looking for a year-long summer glow, you can always try the safe and easy "sunburn" blush trend, which involves applying blush to the nose and cheeks to mimic the look of a sunburn without painful and potentially dangerous sun exposure. (Up next: 3 Genius Ways to Reapply SPF Without Messing Up Your Makeup, According to TikTok)